Battambang is Cambodia's second-largest city (urban area population 124,290 according to the 1998 census) and the capital of Battambang Province. It is an elegant riverside town, home to some of the best-preserved colonial architecture in the country. Until recently Battambang was off the map for road travellers, but facilities have recently been improved and it makes a great base for visiting the nearby temples (Phnom Banon, Wat Ek Phnom...) and villages.